Vise Stand

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May 122012
 

For upcom­ing CV boot replace­ment (and such) I need­ed a vise.  As our vise has gone miss­ing (how the hell one man­ages to lose a 40lb chunk of met­al I do not know), I picked one up cheap at Har­bor Freight.  Today I con­struct­ed the stand for it.  Good times.  …And yes, that wood glue is severe­ly expired.

And also…

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May 122012
 

Cleaned out and cut open the drain cov­er in the front wheel well to help pre­vent clog­ging.  Bizarre design choice to make it as they did.Cut drain end.

Work Resumes

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May 122012
 

Wag­on project is ful­ly fund­ed and under way.  So far, the night­mare of remov­ing lay­ers of hood pad glue is what has been accom­plished.  The 3M adhe­sive remover was not near­ly strong enough, though a lit­tle over half a gal­lon of Goof Off turned out to be.  It prob­a­bly dam­aged the paint and the put­ty knife cer­tain­ly left some scratch­es, now touched up with my old truck’s touch up paint.  Two days and it is all final­ly off though.

Simple access port enlarger tool for Klann clone coil spring compressor.

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Dec 202011
 

Parts list:

  • 1 3/4″ Bi Met­al Hole Saw
  • 1 7/8″ Bi Met­al Hole Saw
  • 2″ #8 or #10 Machine Screw
  • Nut for above screw.

Build:

  1. Put small­er hole saw into larg­er. It should *just* fit.
  2. Work out where to put the screw hole.
  3. Use drill punch to make drilling the curved sur­face eas­i­er.
  4. CAREFULLY drill straight through the whole thing using a drill press.
  5. Insert screw, dab thread lock, screw on nut.
  6. Go drill out the access ports.
  7. Prop­er­ly degrease and paint the new bare steel sur­face you just made!

Notes:

  • Appro­pri­ate hole saws can be had dirt cheap on Ebay.
  • If you have thread lock, use it on the nut.
  • Buy hole saws which use the screw in/drive pin type man­drel!
  • Deep­er sock­ets are bet­ter.
  • Drill out the hole saws just large enough to tight­ly insert/screw in the screw to lessen play.
  • While I would have expect­ed appro­pri­ate man­drel com­bi­na­tion to exist that would allow this com­bi­na­tion prop­er, I was entire­ly unable to find it.
  • The 1 3/4″ hole saw acts as guide to enlarge the hole to the 1 7/8″ that is required for the spring com­pres­sor.
  • It worked great for me on my w123 300td, as did the spring com­pres­sor.

I’m terrible at updating this thing.

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Dec 062011
 

The car is dri­vable.  I took it in to NTB and got an align­ment and the rear tires replaced.  I have the two ‘spe­cial’ tools required to screw with park­ing brakes on their way so as to find out what is going on down there before the next big order.  Park­ing brakes are pri­or­i­ty so that I can get the car inspect­ed.

I’ve also pur­chased one of the spe­cial precham­ber car­bon ream­ers and intend to inspect the glow plugs in prep for this next order as well.

Gas­ket and wind­shield replace­ment also make the cut, par­tic­u­lar­ly the gas­ket.  Thing leaks like a sieve due to dam­age from age.

I bought and installed the dri­vers side upper door mold­ing and replaced some bad mold­ing clips about the car.  I have also got a good deal on a new low­er mold­ing strip and intend to install it soon.  Things are going well.

I real­ly must take a pic­ture of this thing.

Yay.

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Nov 212011
 

Dri­ver side is done.

Cen­ter link by Febi had bad rub­ber for the boots.  Failed already at 0 miles.  Known prob­lem, appar­ent­ly.  AutoPartsWay wants me to pay to ship it back to them, will not offer exchange.  Nice.

I have pur­chased a prop­er OEM Lem­forder part from anoth­er deal­er.  Very much regret I failed to find these Lem­forder parts ear­li­er as I just know the left and right links have heav­en in their eyes already.

Pas­sen­ger side has a day of work and it is good to go.  Going to wait on the new cen­ter link to arrive so I can pop it all out.  Then the fun of work­ing on a dri­vable car begins!  Wee.

Slow progress.

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Nov 032011
 

I’ve not been doing much to the vehi­cle. I’ve not tak­en apart the pas­sen­ger side, cen­ter link­age all done, dri­ver side half done. After buy­ing a $200 spe­cial tool to com­press these obnox­ious coil springs, I ran into the prob­lem of the tool removal hole being slight­ly too small for the MUCH cheap­er gener­ic alter­na­tive. After a lot of attempts to drill or punch the hole prop­er­ly with the right tools, it turns out that in this case, the cheap hack was the most effec­tive. Take a 1 7/8″ bi-met­al hole saw, stick a 1 3/4″ hole saw into it, bolt it togeth­er as far up as you can with a 2″ #8 screw, use thread lock­er.

Lower Ball Joint

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May 062011
 

GARGH.  Can’t get it loose.  Cheap air ham­mer wasn’t enough to dri­ve the pick­le fork in, pick­ing up a larg­er one tomor­row.  The mon­ey pit con­tin­ues to nom.