For upcoming CV boot replacement (and such) I needed a vise. As our vise has gone missing (how the hell one manages to lose a 40lb chunk of metal I do not know), I picked one up cheap at Harbor Freight. Today I constructed the stand for it. Good times. …And yes, that wood glue is severely expired.
And also…
Work Resumes
Wagon project is fully funded and under way. So far, the nightmare of removing layers of hood pad glue is what has been accomplished. The 3M adhesive remover was not nearly strong enough, though a little over half a gallon of Goof Off turned out to be. It probably damaged the paint and the putty knife certainly left some scratches, now touched up with my old truck’s touch up paint. Two days and it is all finally off though.
- Engine bay covered in plastic to protect from goop.
- Finished, alternate angle.
- Goop.
- Finished.
- Touchup paint. Old truck color.
- The tools.
- Goof and Goof Off.
- Trash.
Simple access port enlarger tool for Klann clone coil spring compressor.
Parts list:
- 1 3/4″ Bi Metal Hole Saw
- 1 7/8″ Bi Metal Hole Saw
- 2″ #8 or #10 Machine Screw
- Nut for above screw.
Build:
- Put smaller hole saw into larger. It should *just* fit.
- Work out where to put the screw hole.
- Use drill punch to make drilling the curved surface easier.
- CAREFULLY drill straight through the whole thing using a drill press.
- Insert screw, dab thread lock, screw on nut.
- Go drill out the access ports.
- Properly degrease and paint the new bare steel surface you just made!
Notes:
- Appropriate hole saws can be had dirt cheap on Ebay.
- If you have thread lock, use it on the nut.
- Buy hole saws which use the screw in/drive pin type mandrel!
- Deeper sockets are better.
- Drill out the hole saws just large enough to tightly insert/screw in the screw to lessen play.
- While I would have expected appropriate mandrel combination to exist that would allow this combination proper, I was entirely unable to find it.
- The 1 3/4″ hole saw acts as guide to enlarge the hole to the 1 7/8″ that is required for the spring compressor.
- It worked great for me on my w123 300td, as did the spring compressor.
I’m terrible at updating this thing.
The car is drivable. I took it in to NTB and got an alignment and the rear tires replaced. I have the two ‘special’ tools required to screw with parking brakes on their way so as to find out what is going on down there before the next big order. Parking brakes are priority so that I can get the car inspected.
I’ve also purchased one of the special prechamber carbon reamers and intend to inspect the glow plugs in prep for this next order as well.
Gasket and windshield replacement also make the cut, particularly the gasket. Thing leaks like a sieve due to damage from age.
I bought and installed the drivers side upper door molding and replaced some bad molding clips about the car. I have also got a good deal on a new lower molding strip and intend to install it soon. Things are going well.
I really must take a picture of this thing.
Yay.
Driver side is done.
Center link by Febi had bad rubber for the boots. Failed already at 0 miles. Known problem, apparently. AutoPartsWay wants me to pay to ship it back to them, will not offer exchange. Nice.
I have purchased a proper OEM Lemforder part from another dealer. Very much regret I failed to find these Lemforder parts earlier as I just know the left and right links have heaven in their eyes already.
Passenger side has a day of work and it is good to go. Going to wait on the new center link to arrive so I can pop it all out. Then the fun of working on a drivable car begins! Wee.
Slow progress.
I’ve not been doing much to the vehicle. I’ve not taken apart the passenger side, center linkage all done, driver side half done. After buying a $200 special tool to compress these obnoxious coil springs, I ran into the problem of the tool removal hole being slightly too small for the MUCH cheaper generic alternative. After a lot of attempts to drill or punch the hole properly with the right tools, it turns out that in this case, the cheap hack was the most effective. Take a 1 7/8″ bi-metal hole saw, stick a 1 3/4″ hole saw into it, bolt it together as far up as you can with a 2″ #8 screw, use thread locker.
Haaaaaaaaaaaate.
So much haaaaaaaate.
Lower Ball Joint
GARGH. Can’t get it loose. Cheap air hammer wasn’t enough to drive the pickle fork in, picking up a larger one tomorrow. The money pit continues to nom.
Brake Line — Part 2
Total updated to $45.69 due to only one closeout part in stock. 🙁